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VAL PENNAVAIRE'S CRAGS

Hereby you find a description of the Pennavaire's crags, including those ones not bolted by the association.

 

Desciption EMISFERO   ERBORISTERIA BASSA ENOTECA     REUNION       CIUSA       COLLETTA CAPRETTE
Number of routes 22 30 23 31 22 13 17
In shadow YES YES Summer time after midday Summer time after midday Summer time after midday NO NO
In sun NO NO NO NO NO YES SI
Overhang Slightly YES NO YES YES NO SI
Vertical NO NO YES YES YES YES SI
Slab NO NO YES NO YES YES SI
In case of rain YES YES NO YES NO NO NO
Average grade 6C 7B 6B 6B/C 6B/C 6A/B 6B
Reccomended for experts Recommended Recommended

Not Recommended

Not Recommended

Not Recommended

Not Recommended

Not Recommended

Reccomended for intermediates Excellent Recommended Excellent Excellent Excellent Suitable Excellent
Reccomended for novices

Not Recommended

Not Recommended

Excellent Suitable Suitable Excellent Excellent
Approach Easy Easy Easy Easy Easy Easy Easy
Approching time 2 minutes 5 minutes 15 minutes 10 minutes 5 minutes 10 minutes 10 minutes
Recently renovated NO YES YES YES NO NO YES

To not climb

(unmainteined and

dangerous routes)

------ ---- ----- ---- -------- --------- --------

 

Description TELEMATICA  EUSKAL COLOSSEO BASURA   PLANETARIUN CORSIA RED UP
Number of routes 25 23 35 31 16 18 30
In shadow NO NO NO NO NO NO NO
In sun YES YES YES YES YES YES YES
Overhang NO YES YES YES YES YES YES(Slightly)
Vertical YES YES YES YES NO NO YES
Slab YES NO NO NO NO NO NO
In case of rain NO YES NO NO NO NO NO
Average grade 6A 7B 6B 6C 7C/8A 6C 6C
Reccomended for experts Not Recommended Excellent Recommended Recommended Excellent Not Recommended Suitable
Reccomended for intermediates Recommended Recommended Excellent Excellent Not Recommended Excellent Suitable
Reccomended for novices Excellent Not Recommended Suitable Not Recommended Not Recommended Not Recommended Not Recommended
Approach Easy Easy Easy Easy Easy Easy Easy
Approching time 15 minutes 18 minutes 22 minutes 25 minutes 10 minutes 8 minutes 15 minutes
Recently renovated YES NO NO YES NO NO WORK IN PROGRESS

 

To not climb

(unmainteined

and dangerous routes)

 

------ ---- Bruto, Traiano ---- -------- ---------  

 

 

Descrizione GROTTA DI ALTO  SORGENTE

ERBORISTERIA ALTA

BAUSO   ROCCA GARDA GUGGENHEIM FAMIGLIA
Number of routes 11 20 22 100 20 37 36
In Shadow YES NO YES NO NO Summer time after midday YES
In sun NO YES NO YES YES YES (Only morning time) NO
Overhang

YES (A lot)

YES YES (Slightly) NO NO YES YES
Vertical NO NO YES YES YES YES YES
Slab NO NO NO YES YES NO YES
In case of rain YES YES NO NO NO YES YES
Average grade 8A 7A 6C 6A/B 6C 6B/C 6B/C
Recommended for experts Excellent Recommended Excellent Not Recommended Recommended Suitable Not Recommended
Recommended for intermediates Not Recommended Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent
Recommended for novices Not Recommended Not Recommended Not Recommended Recommended Not Recommended Not Recommended Suitable
Approch Normal Easy Easy Easy Normal Easy Easy
Approching time 20 minutes 10 minutes 10 minutes 25 minutes 20  minutes 25  minutes 10 minutes
Recently renovated YES NO YES (Work in progress) NO YES YES YES

 

To not climb

(unmainteined

and dangerous routes)

 

------ ---- -------------------
Bring a sling on  Sambukeo and Saltasassi for rappel down 
-------- --------- -----------

 

 

Description ACQUARIO  SALVADANAIO CASTELBIANCO GALERA  CINEPLEX TERMINAL
Number of routes 45 24 72 36 106 84
In Shadow NO YES (Only morning time) NO NO YES NO
In sun YES YES Afternoon YES YES NO YES
Overhang YES(Slightly) YES(Slightly) YES YES (Cave on the right) YES YES(Slightly)
Vertical YES YES YES YES YES YES
Slab NO NO NO YES YES YES
In case of rain NO NO YES NO YES NO
Average grade 6C 6B 6A  on the left; 7B on the right 6A/B Excl. cave 7B 6C
Recommended for experts Not Recommended Not Recommended Excellent Not Recommended Excellent Recommended
Recommended for intermediates Excellent Excellent Recommended Recommended Excellent Excellent
Recommended for novices Not Recommended Not Recommended Recommended Excellent Not Recommended Recommended
Approch Easy Easy Easy Normal Normal/Difficult Easy
Approching time 10 minutes 10 minutes 5 minutes 25 minutes 25 minutes 12 minutes
Recently renovated YES NO NO YES YES YES  


 

 

------ ---- Fisico Nucleare ---- -------- ---------

 

CRAGS CLASSIFICATION FOR DIFFICULTY

 

CRAG 4th Grade 5th Grade 6th Grade 7th Grade 8th Grade Projet Total
EMISFERO - - 13 8 - 1 22
ERBORISTERIA BASSA - - 5 16 6 3 30
ENOTECA - 5 15 3 - - 23
REUNION - 3 24 4 - - 31
CIUSA - 4 13 5 - - 22
COLLETTA - - 11 2 - - 13
CAPRETTE - - 14 3 - - 17
TELEMATICA 3 7 15 - - - 25
EUSKAL - - 4 14 2 3 23
COLOSSEO 3 3 19 10 - - 35
BASURA - 1 13 9 - 8 31
PLANETARIUM - - 1 7 6 2 16
CORSIA - - 10 8 - - 18
RED UP - 1 10 7 8 4 30
GROTTA DI ALTO - - 1 1 6 3 11
SORGENTE - - 3 12 4 1 20
ERBORISTERIA ALTA - - 10 9 3 - 22
BAUSO - 5 63 27 - 5 100
ROCCA GARDA - - 4 11 1 4 20
SALVADANAIO - 1 7 9 - 7 24
GUGGHENHEIM - 1 20 7 - 9 37
FAMIGLIA - 1 18 9 - 8 36
CASTELBIANCO - 1 22 31 14 4 72
GALERA - 6 14 10 1 5 36
CINEPLEX - 7 30 38 16 15 106
TERMINAL - 4 26 37 2 15 84

 

 In Italy we use the French grading system. Please refer to <ahref="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_%28climbing%29 for a comparison with German's UIAA, American's YDS and others.

 

THE TOP 60s ................A MUST SEE

A list of the must see and grade-independent routes that we feel like to suggest for the quality of the rock,
the esthetic of the line, and the positive feedback received from the climbers. Of course, this are
personal considerations, i.e. feel free to reach us and propose your favorite ones!
rocpennavaire@gmail.com
We are more than happy to ear your comments!

 

NOME VIA SETTORE GRADO
Polpo  Acquario 7A
Phycis Acquario 6C
Tarpon Acquario 6C
Melusina  Basura 6C
Bomoh Basura 6C+
Kramer contro Kramer Bauso 6C+
Paracelso Basura 6C+
La paura e la voglia Caprette 6C
Tu e il tuo amico Caprette 7A
Rinascimento Castelbianco 7C+
Vattene Castelbianco 7C+
Guido io Castelbianco 8A
Citizen Kane  Cineplex 7C+
America Oggi Cineplex 7C
Gran Torino Cineplex 7A
21 Grammi Cineplex 7C
Blue in the face  Cineplex 7B+
Anonima  Ciusa 6B+
Dino e Dona   Colletta 6A
Bruto  Colosseo 6B+
Seneca Colosseo 7A
NeoGyn Corsia 7A
Acqua Emisfero 7A
Sabbia Emisfero 6C
Merlot Enoteca 6C
Gavi Enoteca 6B
Kalmia Erboristeria 7C+
Ignazia Erboristeria 6C+
China Rossa Erboristeria 7B+
Il Castigo Fontana 6C
Cindy Wau Wau Fontana 6C+
Hanoi Hotel New! Galera 7B+
Esfuerzo Euskal 7B+
Tapas Euskal 7A
Donostia Euskal 6B+
Pianosa  New!  Galera 6A+
Kandinsky Guggenheim 7C
Picasso Guggenheim 7B
Devil Marvel Area 7C+
Batman Marvel Area 7C
Urano Planetarium 7C+
Sedna Planetarium 7C+
Torre Pendente Red Up 8B
Forbice Red Up 5C
Bob Red Up 7B
Merci Laurent Reunion 7A
Chez Celine Reunion 7A
Salazie  Reunion  6B+
jqbal Rocca del Garda 7A
Nuovo Sol Salvadanaio 7B+
Homo Erectus Sorgente 7C
Ram Telematica 6A+
Kazaa Telematica 6A+
Ministro Pestarini Terminal 6C+
Gimpo Terminal 7A+
Nino Aquino Terminal 7B+
Punta Raisi Terminal 7C+
Pook Terminal 7A
Francis Drake Tortuga 7B
Jolly Roger Tortuga 7C/+